On our way back I thought that this is the ideal 3 day trip to show visitors some of the most beautiful areas in the Cape….

It all started with the snow. Elmi’s son and one of Cathy’s friends came to visit during the June holidays. Since neither of them saw snow before we decided to take them on a little tour to show them some snow. Elmi booked everything well in advance.

The only problem we had was that since she made the bookings the weather improved and by the time we went on the trip it felt like summer in the Cape. But we decided to still go on the trip, perhaps we will find some snow somewhere.

Normally we enjoy camping but since this was supposed to be a “snow” expedition the ladies did not think very much of the camping idea. So to my dismay we had to stay in chalets.

We collected the children at the airport on Saturday, stayed with the inlaws for the night and left Cape Town early on Sunday morning.

My idea was to take them on the most scenic trip I could find. So I did not necessarily took the shortest roads.

The first night of the trip we would stay at Matroosberg. I decided to go there via the Bain’s Kloof Pass. The pass was constructed by Andrew Bain, father of well known Thomas Bain in 1849

For those who do not know how to get there, take the N1 north from Cape Town. Take the “Klapmuts/Wellington” turn-off and go left towards Wellington. This is also a very scenic route. At Wellington you will get some traffic lights. I think at the third traffic light there will be a grave yard on your right, turn left at this traffic light. You will now be in a double road. The road curves down the hill. Just after a sharp bend to the left you will get a traffic light with a big white church on your left. Turn right at this traffic light and follow the road until you get to Bainskloof pass.

This was the ninth time I went over this pass and still it remains one of the most beautiful roads to travel. Each time it looks different than the previous time and each time you see something new.

After Bain’s Kloof we headed for Ceres. On route to Ceres you also drive over the Michell’s Pass. Drive straight through Ceres. About 11Km out of Ceres you will find a tarred road to the right. The sign reads ” Bo Swaarmoed”. Turn right there and follow the road for 19Km. Just after the Cherry trees, turn right towards Matroosberg Nature reserve. (33.3302S, 19.6108E)

On our way there we saw only a little bit of snow on the peaks of the mountain. Since we already booked a chalet we decided to stay there and do the 4×4 route just for the fun. When we booked in they informed us that there were still snow at the top.

We unpacked, had some lunch and then headed for the mountains.

The 4×4 route was a bit more difficult than usual. They had some rain lately which washed away certain parts of the route. There are some areas where I think vehicles without a diff-lock would find it very hard to get over without help.

At the top of the route we found some snow. It was not much but it was enough to impress the Pretonions who saw snow for the first time.

The children had a ball and ended up soaking wet.

Even though there were not much snow, it still made a beautiful picture.

We had some hot tea and headed back to our shack.

We only reached our chalet just before dark.

We stayed in one the the “BZN” huts.  These chalets are not exactly very spacious and after about 10 minutes in the chalet I wished that I rather opted for the camping option. Luckily we stayed for one night only and I guess if it was really cold and rainy the little chalet would be wonderful to stay in. For 2 or 3 people it would not be too bad. The place does have everything you need, hot water, electric kettle, microwave oven, bar fridge and two plate stove. There is a braai on the outside (with a grid) and you can buy wood from the office if you did not bring your own.

The next morning we headed to the Ceder Mountains, this is the part of the route I was waiting for. Our next stop would be “Sanddrif” close to the Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve.

On our way through Ceres we stopped at the Pick & Pay to buy those last couple of things you always forget. When you enter Ceres from Matroosberg’s side you will get a sign indicating “Prins Alfred Hamlet” (The R303). You have to turn right here.

Since there are not many places to buy fuel further on the route I suggest you fill your vehicle either in Ceres or Prins Alfred Hamlet which is 10Km from Ceres. You can also get fuel at Op-Die-Berg but I am not sure if they take petrol cards.

Just go straight through Prins Alfred Hamlet. This road takes you up another scenic mountain pass, the Gydo Pass. Apparently the Gydo Pass was named after a species of euphorbia which grows on the slopes of the Skurweberg.

From the the top of Gydo Pass you can see the whole Ceres valley.

Follow the road until you reach the little town called  “Op Die Berg”.  Don’t wink an eye while driving through town, you might miss it. About 200 metres after this little town is a tarred road to the right at the sign which shows that “Kagga Kamma” is in that direction. Turn right there (33.0127S, 19.3147E)

For some reason this road has been tarred for 18km. When you reach the point where the tar stop, just go straight on (if you turn tight here you go to Kagga Kamma and Little Cederberg).

This gravel road is also one of the most scenic routes we traveled during this trip. The last time I traveled this road was on a motorbike. Because the road has lots of little twists and sand you cannot look around much on a bike. Thus I enjoyed it this time driving in the bakkie.

Before we left Matroosberg we did not have breakfast, just coffee and rusks. Normally on a trip like this we make breakfast later on somewhere next to the road. (Sometimes “somewhere” only happens at 13h00)

This time we found a beautiful spot about 10Km from where we left the tarred road.

This road takes you over the Blinkberg Pass and also the Grootrivier Pass. The road’s condition is rather good, but because of all the scenery and little twists in the road it took us almost all day to cover this stretch. About ten days before our trip there was a flood in the area. The roads were damaged but most of them have been repaired by the time we went there.

We stopped at the Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve offices (32.4998S, 19.3386E) to buy permits to go and see the Bushman’s paintings and Stadsaal Caves (32.5105S, 19.3177E)  on our way to Sanddrif.  They say these paintings are about 5,000 years old. It is believed that it have been painted by San medicine men or shamans who were believed to have supernatural powers. The paintings illustrate the experiences of the shamans who used their power to make rain, heal sick people and control game animals. They do not illustrate the every day life of the San.

After playing around in the caves we headed for Sanddrif. The offices are at Dwarsrivier just about a kilometer from Sanddrif. The lady at reception apologized for the noise that is at the camping area. During the floods the previous week the ramp to the bridge at the camping site were totally washed away. They were busy repairing it. We booked in, bought a bottle of delicious Cederberg Cabernet and headed for the chalet. When we got there we were delighted to found that the construction team decided to fall out early for the day and there were no noise.

These chalets are very nice and spacious and have a built in fire place. (braai still outside). Dark wood furniture in the bathroom and white towels tend to do it for me. We took the unit called “Mars” which is right on the end next to the river. Even though it was June holiday, it seems like not many people went away for the holidays. It was Monday afternoon and we were about the only people there. There are various hiking and mountain bike trails at Sanddrif. Since it was almost dark we only went for a hike to the Potholes. Due to the flood the path was very difficult to find and some places we had to do some bundu bashing just to find the path again.

The next morning we went for a walk on the “lot’s wife” route. This is a very easy route and takes you through very interesting sand stone formations. The children’s imaginations went wild with all the funny shapes in the rocks.

From here we headed for Wupperthal.  This town dates back to 1830 and was established by German Rhenish missionaries, Baron Theobold von Wurmb and Johann Gottlieb Leipoldt, who was a shoemaker by trade and grandfather of famous South African poet Louis Leipoldt.

In order to find the Jeep track to Wupperthal you have to drive back to Matjiesrivier. At the T-junction behind the park offices turn left. Not far from there you will find a farm house and old dilapidated stores. Don’t worry, you are still on the right path. Just drive around the buildings and the road will continue.

Some maps will warn that only vehicles with high ground clearance can use this road. Other maps say 4×4′s only. We have often seen locals driving this road with normal sedans. I guess you can do it, but you will damage your vehicle. In my opinion a 4×4 is not really needed, but a vehicle with high ground clearance is a must. After the recent floods the road is even worse and this time I doubt that any sedan will be able to reach Wupperthal via this route.

On our way to Wupperthal we stopped just after Eselbank for our usual brunch (breakfast/lunch) at the swimming hole. When you leave Eselbank you will go through a farm gate. A hundred or so metres further there is a little road to the right, follow that road and just keep to the right. You will find the river not far from there. If you go in summer this is the ideal place to cool down and have a swim (32.346389S, 19.223611E)

At Wupperthal we showed our guests around. We also took them to the shoe factory. It is sad to see how neglected everything are. I know a couple of years ago millions were spent to refurbish the town but it seems like after that everything was left to return to its original state. I guess they are waiting for the next donations to stream in before they can do something about it. I would rather not express my views about this, but it seems like you get people who are always building and improving and then you get those who just do not give a damn and will not do anything to improve their circumstances. Or perhaps the people who donated the millions only gave the people fish, they never taught them how to fish.

I wanted to photograph the church again, but had to photograph the back since there was a broken down vehicle parked right next to the front door of this historic tourist attraction.

We went for coffee and scones at the coffee shop at The Leipoldt house. (32.2766S, 19.2170E)

From here we headed to Enjolife where would stay for the night. Just outside the road takes you over the Kouberg Pass with spectacular views over the whole area. You can even see the Jeep track coming down the other side of the valley.

After we left Wupperthal we took the first big gravel road to the right just before you get Mertenhof farm (32.1588S, 19.1901E). The sign shows “UitspanKraal” and in summer you can sometimes use this road to get to the Tankwa area. In winter the river is in flood most of the times and you cannot cross. On a previous trip we came from the other side and had to turn around at the same river. Click here for details

Only about 10Km further you first get Middelplaas and then Enjolife. When we entered the gate I noticed that some daisies were already open next to the road.

This farm belongs to a friendly young German couple (Andrea and Moritz Conrad) who decided to trade the busy city life in Germany for the quality and tranquil lifestyle on a Karoo farm. They have been there only three years but one can see that they did a lot of work on the farm. There are still a lot to be done and Moritz has some great ideas. Currently he is busy marking more hiking trails. They recently built three cottages and a camping site.

There are a lot to do on the farm. They made their pool table available to visitors. In the games room is a pool table and dart board. You can swim, rent a motorcycle to explore the area,  explore the area on your mountain bike or you can even view the area from air. Moritz owns a plane and can take visitors on a flight to view the area from above.

The cottage is cozy and romantic. It is next to the river and it is a pity the children came with. Next time I will leave them at home.

There is a braai outside and also a fireplace inside. Although it is a 4 sleeper it was spacious enough for the 5 of us. They have placed three mattresses on the loft for the children. There is electricity, hot water, electric kettle, stove and a small bar fridge. The spring water is so fresh here that you can bring empty containers with in order to take some if it home.

Normally I prefer camping but in this little place I would be able to stay for a month.

The next morning I was rewarded for getting up early by the most beautiful sunrise.

The above two pictures were taken from the same spot at the same time. I photographed the sunrise and when I turned around to face the cottage, I saw that the full moon was right behind me. I then photographed the cottage with the moon in the tree.

We went for a drive to the fountain (where the farm’s water comes from). It is a lovely drive up the hill but I am afraid that you must have a 4×4 to be able to go up there. There were plenty of flowers and there are the most interesting succulents in the veld which have not even started to flower. According to Moritz the flowers start flowering in their area about three weeks before most other areas. So if you cannot wait for the flowers to open, you can go to EnjoLife to have some flower fun.

Although we did not camp I decided to include this photograph of the camping site’s bathroom just to show how close to the river it is.

I know I have not spent enough time on this farm. I will go back there soon. I think especially in summer when you can use the road to go to Tankwa, this farm is very centrally situated to explore the rest of the area.

Very reluctant we left. It was time to go home. The beauty of the “Hoek se Berg Pas” helped to settle back into touring mode.

When we reached the Clanwilliam/Calvinia road (R364) we found that they are busy tarring the road. Another great gravel road are now making way for a wide tar road. I am not sure if they will tar it all the way to the Calvinia road.

I decided to take another detour in an attempt to bypass most of the road works. We turned right at the Wolfdrif turnoff (S32.0752S, 19.0682E).  About 26km further we stopped at the Bushman’s Cave Outdoor Centre (31.9495S, 18.9116E) to stretch our legs and walk around the area. If you have not been there it is well worth a visit.  They created a amfi theater at the caves and use it for functions and gigs.

From there you can continue with the road to Clanwilliam and are rewarded with the Kraaibos Pass. About 33Km further you will be back in civilisation and you can switch on the cell phone again. My cell phone was so happy to feel my hands again that it delivered 18 messages. I was so angry at it that I immediately switched it off again.

On our way back we went for the last detour. This time up Piketberg to have coffee and “Patatkoek” at Mrs Visser’s Bo-Piket-Berg tea garden (022-914-5626 ). To get there turn north in the town’s main street until you get the R365. Follow that road for about 1 Km and turn left where it say “Piket-Bo-Berg” (32.8863S, 18.7619E). This road takes you up the narrow and winding Versveld Pass. When you get to the top just follow the road until you get a T-Junction. At the T turn left and follow the narrow winding road until you get the Tea Garden sign (32.7725S, 18.6736E)

After coffee it was getting late and we used the last little bit of sunlight to navigate our way down the gravel road at the back of Piketberg towards Goedverwag. This road has also been washed away by the recent rains and at one stage the children decided to rather get out of the vehicle. This was the last bit of fun for the trip. To get to this road is a bit tricky if you do not know the road. If you return from the tea garden, long before you reach the Versveld pass you will see a road turning to your right. There is something that looks like a Telkom tower. Turn right there (32.8113S, 18.7081E). After about 3.6Km you will see a shed on your left. Turn left there (32.8050S, 18.6753E). I know it looks wrong, it seems as if you are driving into somebody’s farm. Just follow the road and pass the farm house on the left. You will pass new Buchu plants on your left and a new dam on the right. After the dam the road turn to the left and about 300 metres further there is a sharp turn to the right. Do not get lost here. The road forks but you must keep to the right. After you turned right here you can only follow the bumpy road down the mountain to Goedverwag. Once in Goedverwag turn right at the tar road. This will take you to the Piketberg/Velddrif tar road (the R399)

We arrived back home way after sunset.

Three days and eleven mountain passes. This is surely a short beauty packed round trip which any Capetonion can use to entertain their guests. If you are a visitor to the area and you would like to see some of the most beautiful places in the area you can follow this route.  The roads are good and you will only need a 4×4 for the Matroosberg 4×4 route. The rest can be done with any vehicle with high ground clearance.

Some of the roads go through farms. Remember the golden rule for the gates:

If you find the gate open, leave it open. If you find the gate closed, close it again behind you.